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Where skin care is concerned, more is not always better. Washing your face too frequently can dry out your skin, for example, while overexfoliating can disrupt your skin barrier and lead to irritation. Achieving the results you’re looking for — and keeping your skin happy — requires a bit of a balancing act. That’s where skin cycling comes into play.
This technique, coined by dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe, involves spacing out the use of active ingredients to help stave off irritation and give your skin time to recover. And it turns out, there are many benefits to taking a slow-and-steady approach with your skin care routine, even if you’re not prone to irritation.
To get the lowdown on skin cycling, we enlisted three board-certified dermatologists: Dr. Anar Mikailov, Dr. Karan Lal, and Dr. Sapna Palep. Keep reading to learn what skin cycling is, how it works, and how to create a skin cycling routine that works for you.
What Is Skin Cycling?
According to Dr. Mikailov, skin cycling is a practice that involves alternating your nightly use of active ingredients. Most commonly, it involves using an exfoliant (such as glycolic or salicylic acid) one night, a retinoid the next, and then giving your skin two nights “off” (though you’d still cleanse and moisturize as usual). The idea, he says, is that gradually introducing stronger ingredients into your routine “minimizes [the] dermatitis and irritation risks associated with high-strength active ingredients.”
Dr. Lal says this approach “is a great way for skin care newbies to avoid irritation and get used to new actives” such as retinoids, which can take time to adjust to. Additionally, skin cycling makes it easy to build a consistent routine — and more than anything, consistency is the key to seeing skin care results.
Should Everybody Cycle Their Products?
According to Dr. Mikailov, “everyone can benefit from skin cycling.” However, the approach you take may look a bit different from the four-night routine outlined above. “There are so many ways to do skin cycling,” Dr. Palep says. She suggests consulting with a dermatologist who can help you develop a routine customized to your skin’s needs. “Everyone has to find their homeostasis, their groove,” she adds.
Dr. Lal agrees, noting that the four-day regimen is “a good place to start,” but that the ideal routine “all depends on [your] skin.” Those with oily skin, he says, may be able to tolerate a more aggressive routine than those with dry or more sensitive skin. Again, this is where consulting with a dermatologist can prove helpful, especially if you’re starting your routine from scratch.
How To Start Skin Cycling
When starting skin cycling, there are a few things you’ll want to keep in mind. First — and perhaps most importantly — it’s crucial to choose products suitable for your skin type. Products formulated for dry skin may be too rich for those with oily or acne-prone skin, for example, whereas products formulated for oily skin may leave dry skin feeling tight or flaky. It’s also a good idea to check in with your skin regularly. If you experience irritation, take a step back and give your skin more time to rest between use of actives. Skin feeling strong? Then you may be able to cut back to one rest day per week.
With that being said, skin cycling is generally considered a great way to build a consistent and effective skin care routine. If you’re interested in giving it a try, here’s what you’ll want to do:
Night One: Exfoliate
On the first night, start by washing your face with a gentle, nonabrasive cleanser. Then, pat your skin dry and reach for a leave-on, chemical exfoliant that can help address your skin concerns.
If you’re looking to target dullness, discoloration, or fine lines, look for a serum that contains an alpha-hydroxy acid such as glycolic or lactic acid. We’re fond of Fresh Lotus AHA Resurfacing Serum, which contains glycolic and citric acid and helps improve skin texture and tone. Those with oily or acne-prone skin, meanwhile, may fare better with something containing salicylic acid, such as COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid Treatment.
Allow your chosen exfoliant a minute or two to absorb, and then complete your nighttime skin care routine with a gentle moisturizer.
Night Two: Use a Retinoid
On night two, cleanse your face as usual, then apply a product containing a retinoid. If you’re new to retinoids, we suggest starting with retinol (a more gentle version). It’s available over the counter and tends to be less harsh on the skin than stronger retinoids. We’re especially fond of Kiehl’s Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum, as it’s designed to deliver results without redness, dryness, or peeling. Another great option is Sunday Riley Luna Retinol Sleeping Night Oil, which soothes the skin as it addresses age-related concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, and discoloration.
Whichever retinol product you choose, be sure to allow it adequate time to absorb before following up with your nighttime moisturizer. Alternatively, try “sandwiching” your retinol product between layers of moisturizer — this technique can help shield your skin against irritation.
Nights Three and Four: Rest
On nights three and four, you’ll take a break from harsh actives and instead focus on repairing your skin barrier. After cleansing, consider applying a hyaluronic acid serum or ceramide-infused cream to give your skin some much-needed TLC. You can also swap out your go-to night cream for a richer, reparative overnight face mask, such as Dr. Brandt Hydro Biotic Recovery Sleeping Mask.
Ultimately, skin cycling can be a great way to dip your toes into the world of strong skin care ingredients without sacrificing your skin’s healthy appearance (or comfort). That said, it’s always a good idea to consult your dermatologist before embarking on any new skin care adventure — no matter how gentle it’s intended to be.
This article is for general informational purposes only.
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